Coloristics of iColor pigments for permanent eyebrow makeup

Hi everyone, this is a tutorial on coloristics of iColor PMU pigments. In this block we will talk about correctors and eyebrow pigments.

iColor pigments are organics containing, with minerals and organic dyes. The pigments are loose, watercolor-like, so each color can be used pure or mixed together to create new shades.

The corrector is not dense, it lies in the skin in a thin layer, which is undoubtedly a bonus when refreshing or creating mixes. This yellow corrector covers gray eyebrows with a purple or blue shade. MUSTARD is designed to work in the brow area only.

Definitely choose MUSTARD to cover gray eyebrows for women with light skin and hair. If you use a denser corrector like BRONZA, you won't be able to make light-colored eyebrows for your client. BRONZA is more saturated bright and dense, so you will not be able to make light eyebrows with it.

MUSTARD in the mix lightens the underlying pigment and gives a beautiful golden undertone.

We add BRONZA to pigments to neutralize blue, purple or olive skin tones. The pigment covers gray, blue, eyebrows with a metallic blue tint and arrows on the eyelids.

When overlapping blue arrows, it is necessary to work in layers. First lay down BRONZA corrector, then black eye pigment BLACK VELVET.

BRONZA can be mixed with MUSTARD corrector 1:2. It is important to have more MUSTARD, because BRONZA eats the yellow shade of MUSTARD. This way you will achieve a medium yellow corrector, which will cover medium gray eyebrows and will be a safer solution if you want to remove the eyebrows later.

Let's move on to brow pigments - they are divided into 2 categories: BROWN and BLOND, which is reflected in the names.

There is a lot of black colorant in the pigment - when working in its pure form, it will come out through the gray shade. The gray shade turns out harmonious, not too bright, but it is suitable only for brunettes with warm skin and dark hairs on the eyebrows. Use the pigment in its pure form for swarthy skin with warm and neutral skin tones.

The pigment is suitable for the eyelid area - we use it to fill in the interlash space. It is especially suitable for women with a dim appearance, not thick or light-colored eyelashes. Here DEEP BROWN looks soft and delicate. DEEP BROWN can be added to another pigment to darken the color. On warm or neutral skin, it heals with a gorgeous dark bitter chocolate color.

This shade can be used pure for warm, neutral, red or pink-toned skin. For blue or violet-toned skin, add BRONZA corrector.

BLACK AND BROWN is suitable for filling in the space between the eyelashes for women with porcelain skin, blonde hair and blue eyes. It gives a very light result without weighing down the look.

BLACK AND BROWN can be mixed with DEEP BROWN and used to fill in the interlash space. BLACK AND BROWN is suitable for overlapping reddish eyebrows on clients with olive-toned skin. When overlapping, pay attention to what the client already has in their skin. If the skin is olive toned and has red tattooing in it, add black and yellow to it. This will give you a nice, medium brown shade.

BROWN is suitable for skin with olive, yellow, olive-yellow undertones. When BROWN is added to pigments, we get a warm chestnut color. It cannot be used pure on skin with blue undertones. Red will mix with blue and during healing we may get eyebrows with purple undertones.

Suitable for all brunettes and shades. The orange base gives you the opportunity to adjust to your skin tone. If the client has warm skin - it will heal with warm-brown shade, if cool - gray-brown.

NATURAL BROWN blends with all shades, suitable for powder application and hairline technique. Great for shades of brown hair, brunettes, contrasting blondes, red-haired girls. For cold skin: blue, violet or olive, we can add MUSTARD corrector or BRONZA corrector. Or we can make a mix of correctors and add it to NATURAL BROWN.

When working with yellow or peachy skin, I recommend intensifying the color and adding BRONZA corrector to the NATURAL BROWN pigment.

Yellow-based pigment is suitable for powder eyebrow application, hairline technique and performs well in mixes with all pigments. It plays a dominant role in mixes and is used to lighten the mix. TERRA BROWN has a green colorant, which allows to cover red loose tattooing.

In its pure form, the pigment heals from medium blonde to dark blonde tone, suitable for dark blondes, shades and russet-haired girls. The pigment will suit both young girls and ageing ladies. The most popular mix is TERRA BROWN + NATURAL BROWN 1:1, a light beautiful medium brown shade.

For a warmer shade, add BROWN pigment. 3-4 drops will make the mix more interesting. For cooler skin with blue or violet undertones, you can add BRONZA corrector.

Perfect for russet-haired girls, shades and blondes. One of our favorite mixes of DARK BLOND and NATURAL BROWN. The pigment is suitable for the hairline technique.

If used pure, it will require more passes than the other pigments. Suitable for golden blondes with fair skin. GOLDEN BLOND blends with dark colors and can be used instead of a corrector. However, this pigment is not suitable for overlapping.